Look for guachinches, small family-run spots serving simple Canarian food and local wine at low prices. They’re mostly in the north around La Laguna, El Sauzal and Tacoronte.
You’ll know you’re in the right place when the menu has three options and the wine comes in a plastic bottle. Mercado de Nuestra Señora de África in Santa Cruz has proper food stalls where locals grab lunch.
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Avoid the tourist strips in Playa de las Américas and Los Cristianos for everyday meals. Head inland to towns like La Orotava or Icod de los Vinos for restaurants filled with residents rather than visitors.
